Kuari Pass Trek: My Experience
How I Ended Up Here
After my exhausting experience at Bandaje trek in Karnataka, I made a declaration: "Naanu innu lifetime alli trek maadudilla" (I'll never do trekking again in my lifetime). I was unfit, unprepared, and completely drained. So naturally, when my friend Adithya invited me to trek Kuari Pass in the Himalayas during December 2025, I said... yes?
Sometimes the best adventures start with questionable decisions.
My preparation for this Himalayan trek? One 5k run that left me with feet pain. That's it. Not exactly the training regimen you'd find in trekking guides.
Getting There
December 25, 2025 - Left Bangalore for Dehradun, spent the night at a hostel preparing mentally for what lay ahead.
December 26, 2025 - The real journey began. We traveled from Rishikesh to Joshimath base camp (6,150 ft) via Tempo Traveller, winding through the Shivalik Hills along the banks of the Ganga River. The drive took us through Devprayag, where the Alaknanda and Bhagirathi rivers merge to form the Ganges, and through picturesque towns like Karnaprayag and Nandaprayag. We checked into our hotel in Joshimath, the quaint town that would be our base, resting at night with temperatures around 7-8°C.
The Route We Took
- Day 1 (Dec 27): Tugasi Village to Akhrotghetta (~9,300 ft)
- Day 2 (Dec 28): Akhrotghetta to Khullara Top (~11,500 ft)
- Day 3 (Dec 29): Khullara Top → Kuari Pass Summit (12,516 ft) → Return to Joshimath Base We requested to complete the trek a day early by doing an early morning summit push and descending all the way back to the base camp at Joshimath instead of spending another night at Khullara.
- Day 4 (Dec 30): Return to Rishikesh
Day 1 of Trek
Date: December 27 2025
Start Time: 11:00 AM
Route: Tugasi Village → Akhrotghetta
Watch Stats:
The trail from Tugasi Village began with a gradual ascent. The terrain was rocky and dusty, and I quickly realized my mistake: carrying my full trekking bag.
My heart rate tells the story better than words—averaging 160 bpm with peaks hitting 196 bpm. For someone coming from a sedentary lifestyle and jumping straight into altitude, this was intense. Very intense.
Our first destination was Akhrotghetta.
The facilities were a humble introduction to mountain living. Meals were primarily dal, rice, and rotis—simple, warm, and necessary. However, the real initiation came when I encountered the dry pit toilet for the first time. Let’s just say it’s an experience that tests your commitment to the wilderness right from the start.
Day 2 of Trek
Date: December 28, 2025
Start Time: 8:30 AM
Route: Akhrotghetta → Khullara Top
Watch Stats:
Pride goeth before a fall, they say. I hired a mule for ₹500 to carry my trekking bag.
The trail opened up to magnificent views of the Himalayan range. The terrain remained rocky and dusty, winding through gentle inclines and stretches of grassy land with tall trees providing occasional shade.
Despite the mule carrying my bag, I still felt tired. But here's the thing - I felt like I could have carried it. The body adapts, slowly but surely.
Khullara Top was a different scene altogether. Multiple trekking companies had set up camp here, and the site was dotted with numerous tents. The crisp mountain air and peaceful atmosphere added to the charm of the trek, even as the temperatures began to drop significantly.
The evening brought a spectacular opportunity for stargazing. With clear, star-filled skies high in the Himalayas, the celestial display was mesmerizing - something you simply cannot experience in city-lit skies.
That Freezing Night at Khullara
The night at Khullara Top was freezing. Even with a good sleeping bag, I could barely sleep for 2 hours. I shivered through the night with a mild fever, wondering why I ever thought climbing this mountain was a good idea.
Summit Day: Every Breath Was Hard Work
Date: December 29, 2025
Start Time: 5:30 AM
Route: Khullara Top → Kuari Pass Summit → Joshimath Base
Watch Stats:
Wake up call at 5:00 AM. No sunrise warmth yet, just darkness and cold. After barely sleeping, my body was already protesting. But this was it - summit day.
Getting to the Top
The trail to Kuari Pass was the most challenging terrain of the entire trek. Very rocky, with a steady ascent that seemed to go on forever. As we climbed higher, something changed - breathing became difficult. Really difficult.
At higher altitudes, each breath felt like I was getting half the oxygen I needed. My pace slowed dramatically. The headache that had started at Khullara intensified. I took a lot of time, resting frequently, focusing on each step.
12,516 Feet - Finally
When I finally reached Kuari Pass summit, exhausted, breathless, and with a pounding headache - none of it mattered anymore.
The sunrise over the Himalayas was worth every painful step.
The landscape was surreal - snow on the distant mountain tops, frozen water streams, and the pristine white peaks stretching as far as the eye could see.
I spent 30-40 minutes at the summit, taking photos, catching my breath, and feeling an overwhelming sense of happiness and accomplishment. This sedentary guy who swore off trekking had just summited a 12,516-foot pass in the Himalayas.
Coming Back Down
If the ascent was about breathing, the descent was about pain management. Knee pain. Toe pain. The kind that makes you question your skeletal structure.
We descended from Kuari Pass back to Khullara Top, then continued all the way down to Tugasi Village in one go, finally reaching Joshimath by 7:00 PM.
The descent was less exhausting cardiovascularly but harder on the joints. Every downward step was a reminder of gravity's existence.
Weather and What We Saw
The Climate
The weather during late December was okay for trekking, though cold:
- Joshimath Base: Pleasant days with cool nights around 7-8°C
- Akrotghetta: Noticeably colder at night, requiring proper layering
- Khullara Top: Very cold with strong winds, temperatures dropping significantly below freezing
- Summit: Cold but manageable during the day when we reached
Mornings were typically sunny and clear, perfect for trekking. The weather was dry throughout - no snowfall during our trek, though snow was visible on mountain tops. Water streams along the trail had frozen into ice, creating beautiful natural ice formations.
The wind became increasingly strong as we gained altitude, particularly at Khullara Top where it made the nights brutally cold. This wind chill factor was perhaps more challenging than the actual temperature.
The Mountain Views
The views from Khullara campsite were spectacular even before reaching the summit. The evening at Khullara Top offered perfect conditions for stargazing, with clear, star-filled skies providing an incredible celestial show.
What I Packed and What Actually Helped
My Gear List
Backpack: 60L Rucksack from Amazon.
Clothing Layers:
- Thermals (Decathlon) - Essential base layer
- Fleece Jacket (Decathlon) - Mid-layer warmth
- Jacket from Boldfit - Outer shell
- Boldfit track pants
- Woolen cap (Decathlon)
- Balaclava
- Neck gaiter (Decathlon)
Footwear: Adidas Terrex ANYLANDER MID R.RDY shoes - Decent performance, provided good grip on rocky terrain
Accessories:
- Gloves from Boldfit - Just okay, could have been warmer
- Socks SH500 from Decathlon - Performed well
- Trekking Pole (rented) - ABSOLUTE MUST-HAVE, helped tremendously with balance and reducing knee strain
- Rain Poncho (rented) - Carried but didn't need it
Power: 20000 mAh power bank and two phones.
What I'd Change
Less clothing. When bathing isn't an option for 3-4 days, you realize you don't need multiple outfit changes. Pack light, focus on layering rather than variety.
The sleeping bags provided were good quality, though nothing can fully prepare you for those windy nights at Khullara.
Drinking Water Was Tough
I couldn't drink as much water as I should have. At altitude, with cold weather and the effort required just to move, proper hydration becomes challenging. This likely contributed to my headaches and fatigue.
Trekking with the Group
Our group consisted of 13 people total. I knew 8 of them. We interacted with the others during the trek, and the group dynamic was very good.
The age range was mostly people in their 20s to late 20s, with no one older than 40. Fitness levels varied, but everyone from our group of 8 made it to the summit.
What I'm most grateful for: the people who waited for me during the toughest sections. When you're struggling with breath and pace, having patient companions makes all the difference.
The Hard Parts
Physical Stuff
- Knee and toe pain during descent - The most persistent discomfort
- Headaches increasing with altitude - Started mild, became intense near summit
- Breathing difficulty at higher elevations - Every breath felt insufficient
- The shivering night at Khullara - Cold plus mild fever is a terrible combination
The Unglamorous Stuff
- Changing clothes inside a tent in freezing temperatures
- The dry pit toilet experience
- Minimal hygiene for days
- Sleeping in extreme cold despite good sleeping bags
- That feeling when you're the slowest in the group
Few Days in Rishikesh
December 30, 2025 - After reaching Rishikesh, we checked into a hotel and had dinner at Beatles Cafe. The cafe was good, offering much-needed food and relaxation after the trek.
December 31, 2025 - We visited the Beatles Ashram, which was honestly disappointing. It's under construction with nothing much to see. The evening Ganga Aarti, however, was a different experience - crowded but beautiful, especially as my first time witnessing this spiritual ritual along the Ganga.
Throughout our Rishikesh stay, we enjoyed good tea and breakfast. If you're not into river rafting or bungee jumping, there aren't many other places to explore in Rishikesh.
January 1, 2026 - Visited Raha Cafe, but the food was bland. Took our flight back to Bangalore, ending the journey.
Looking Back
Will I trek again? Maybe (Naanu innu lifetime alli trek maadudilla). Will I prepare better next time? Definitely.
Every breath was a struggle. Every step was earned. And that's exactly why it mattered.
To Adithya for convincing me again, to the patient souls who waited for the slowest guy in the group, and to the mountains for being mercilessly beautiful - thank you.